Although it is renowned for good tapas, what you really go there for is the booze, especially the caliscasa, a combination of local sweet wines. This is another very famous bar in Granada, and it, too, is always full. Also, if you’re willing to pay for your food, this place does great fish. There you’ll get good wine and plates of homemade pâté or meatballs in tomato sauce.
While dodging your neighbor’s wild gesticulations and wincing through his sharp cackles, you can expect things like grilled pork sirloin and chicken wings. There the tapas are enormous, some of the biggest I’ve seen in the city, the beer ice cold, and the atmosphere boisterous and loud. With a small beer or wine, you can expect gargantuan bowls of anything from lamb sweetbreads to clams in salsa verde it depends on what’s available.Ĭlose by is Taberna el Aviso. If you can find that little gap at the bar or by the door, your discomfort will be worth it. This place, open since 1942, is legendary among tapas bars in Granada, so be prepared for it to be packed. Start off in Bar los Diamantes on Navas Street. In the most reputable bars, drinks come with hefty complementary servings of tapas, which means that eating is, for all intents and purposes, free. Whereas in other Spanish cities you might be lucky to get a slice of chorizo served with your beer or wine, in Granada you can get a whole meal. In Granada, eating is like nowhere else in Spain. There are many perfect days in Granada, but here’s mine. I remember the city making even that bearable. I remember sitting in the Plaza Aliatar drinking a beer, a notebook of my lousy fiction in front of me. I remember staring for hours at the infinite geometric patterns on the Alhambra’s walls. I remember the first time I listened to the pained wail of a flamenco singer shoot up into the night like a firework. Whether getting lost in the entangled streets of its whitewashed Moorish quarter or traipsing from tapas bar to tapas bar in a greedy, boozy haze, I never struggle to find this city enchanting.
I have traveled all over the country for my work, and Granada is a place I never tire of visiting. I have been living in Spain for the past six years now. It was also the birthplace of the poet Federico Garcia Lorca, who often wrote how he loved this city “deliriously.” It was in Granada that the Catholic monarchs vanquished the Moors in 1492, ending Arab rule in Spain. Set amid the Sierra Nevada, packed with churches, former mosques, palaces, and plazas, the city seethes with history. Francisco Icaza wrote, “There is no greater shame in the world than being blind in Granada.” The poet might be guilty of exaggeration, but it certainly would be a shame not to see Granada at all.
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